Easy Ways to Save Yourself Headaches at the Range (Part 1)

Written by Sierra Bullets Media Relations Manager Carroll Pilant

I had some gentlemen at my house last Fall getting rifle zeros for an upcoming elk hunt. One was using one of the .300 short mags and every 3rd or 4th round would not chamber. Examination of the case showed a bulge right at the body/shoulder junction. These were new cases he had loaded for this trip. The seating die had been screwed down until it just touched the shoulder and then backed up just slightly. Some of the cases were apparently slightly longer from the base to the datum line and the shoulder was hitting inside the seating die and putting the bulge on the shoulder. I got to thinking about all the gun malfunctions that I see each week at matches and the biggest percentage stem from improper handloading techniques.

One: Utilize a Chamber Gage

Since I shoot a lot of 3 gun matches, I see a lot of AR problems which result in the shooter banging the butt stock on the ground or nearest solid object while pulling on the charging handle at the same time. I like my rifles too well to treat them that way myself. I cringe every time I see someone doing that. When I ask them if they run the ammo thru a chamber gage, I usually get the answer, “No, but I need to get one” or “I didn’t have time to do it” or other excuses. That few minutes that it takes to check you ammo can mean the difference between a nightmare and a smooth running firearm.

3_Cases_In_Case_Gage

Chamber gage

Another problem is caused sizing the case itself. If you will lube the inside of the neck, the expander ball will come out a lot easier. If you hear a squeak as the expander ball comes out of a case neck, that expander ball is trying to pull the case neck/shoulder up (sometimes several thousandths). That is enough that if you don’t put a bulge on the shoulder when seating the bullet, like we talked about above, it can still jam into the chamber like a big cork. If the rifle is set up correctly, the gun will not go into battery and won’t fire but the round is jammed into the chamber where it won’t extract and they are back to banging it on the ground again (with a loaded round stuck in the chamber). A chamber gage would have caught this also.

Bad_Primer_WallsOversizing cases also causes problems because the firing pin doesn’t have the length to reach the primer solid enough to ignite it 100% of the time. When you have one that is oversized, you usually have a bunch, since you usually do several cases at a time on that die setting. If the die isn’t readjusted, the problem will continue on the next batch of cases also. They will either not fire at all or you will have a lot of misfires. In a bolt action, a lot of time the extractor will hold the case against the face of the breech enough that it will fire. The case gets driven forward and the thinner part of the brass expands, holding to the chamber wall and the thicker part of the case doesn’t expand as much and stretches back to the bolt face. If it doesn’t separate that time, it will the next time. When it does separate, it leaves the front portion of the case in the chamber and pulls the case head off. Then when it tries to chamber the next round, you have a nasty jam. Quite often range brass is the culprit of this because you never know how many times it has been fired/sized and in what firearm.  Back to beating it on the ground again till you figure out that you have to get the forward part of the case out. Just a quick tip. To extract the partial case, an oversize brush on a cleaning rod ran in to the point that is is still in the case and then pulled backward will often remove the case. The bristles when pushed forward and then pulled back act like barbs inside the case.  If you have a bunch of oversized case that have been fired, I would dispose of them to keep from having future problems. There are a few tricks you can use to salvage them if they haven’t been fired though. Once again, a case gage would have helped.

Two: Double Check Your Primers

Primer_ProblemsAnother thing I see fairly often is a high primer, backwards primer, or no primer at all. The high primers are bad because you can have either a slam fire or a misfire from the firing pin seating the primer but using up its energy doing so. So, as a precaution to make sure my rifle ammo will work 100% of the time, I check it in a case gage, then put it in an ammo box with the primer up and when the box is full, I run my finger across all the primers to make sure they are all seated to the correct depth and you can visually check to make sure none are in backwards or missing.

IMG_6151

Three: Check Your Overall Cartridge Length

Trying to load the ammo as long as possible can cause problems also. Be sure and leave yourself enough clearance between the tip of the bullet and the front of the magazine where the rounds will feed up 100%. Several times over the years, I have heard of hunters getting their rifle ready for a hunt. When they would go to the range to sight in, they loaded each round single shot without putting any ammo in the magazine. On getting to elk or deer camp, they find out the ammo is to long to fit in the magazine. At least they have a single shot, it could be worse. I have had hunters that their buddies loaded the ammo for them and then met them in hunting camp only to find out the ammo wouldn’t chamber from either the bullet seated to long or the case sized improperly, then they just have a club.

Four: Confirm All Cases Contain Powder

No powder in the case doesn’t seem to happen as much in rifle cartridges as in handgun cartridges. This is probably due to more handgun ammo being loaded on progressive presses and usually in larger quantities. There are probably more rifle cartridges that don’t have powder in them than you realize though. Since the pistol case is so much smaller internal capacity, when you try to fire it without powder, it usually dislodges the bullet just enough to stick in the barrel. On a rifle, you have more internal capacity and usually a better grip on the bullet, since it is smaller diameter and longer bearing surface. Like on a .223, often a case without powder won’t dislodge the bullet out of the case and just gets ejected from the rifle, thinking it was a bad primer or some little quirk.  For rifle cases loaded on a single stage press, I put them in a reloading block and always dump my powder in a certain order. Then I do a visual inspection and any case that the powder doesn’t look the same level as the rest, I pull it and the one I charged before and the one I charged after it. I inspect the one case to see if there is anything visual inside. Then I recharge all 3 cases. That way if a case had powder hang up and dump in the next case, you have corrected the problem. On progressive presses, I try to use a powder that fills the case up to about the base of the bullet. That way you can usually see the powder as the shell rotates and if you might have dumped a partial or double charge, you will notice as you start to seat the bullet if not before. On a progressive, if I don’t load a cartridge in one smooth stroke (say a bullet tipped over sideways and I raised the ram slightly to reset it) Some presses actually back the charge back adding more powder if it has already dumped some so you have a full charge plus a partial charge. When I don’t complete the procedure with one stroke, I pull the case that just had powder dumped into it and check the powder charge or just dump the powder back into the measure and run the case thru later.

I could go on and on but hopefully this will help some of you that are having these problems cure them. A case gage really can do wonders.  Stay tuned for Easy Easy Ways to Save Yourself Headaches at the Range Part 2!

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11 Responses to Easy Ways to Save Yourself Headaches at the Range (Part 1)

  1. Pingback: Easy Ways to Save Yourself Headaches at the Range (Part 1) | Rifleman III Journal

  2. David Ruppel says:

    Good read! I am so careful using my progressive reloader to make sure I don’t have powder problems. It is so easy to do just as you said. I don’t do rifle ammo on it because of the fear of not giving enough time for all the powder charge to dump into the case before I push the handle back up. I have done it before and decided not to do rifle ammo on it again. Besides with my rifle ammo I like to weigh each round. As soon as I charge the case I seat the bullet. I never,as of yet, had any powder problems doing it that way. I also check to make sure each loaded round slides into the chamber of my bolt guns before I hit the range. I am just starting to reload for an AR15 so I need to take your advise and buy a gage so I can check the case’s . Good plan! Thank you!
    Rupe

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  3. firstriverbend says:

    Very good article!
    While a case gauge is wonderful to have, just actually visually and physically examining each round catches most problems before they are an issue.
    Something as simple as running the case between your finger tips will often alert you to a case that needs further inspection. Works on both fired cases and loaded rounds.
    The simple action of looking at the primers will expose most potential problems!
    So easy to find and fix problems before they are issues, with simple observation and the correct tools! 🙂

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  4. A Long says:

    In addition to the loaded cartridge gage, try using a case holder. I use the same case holder that I use in my auto-primer. If you’re going to have to cull a case, do it before you’ve stuck a primer in it.

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  5. Carroll, we have a lot of problems here in NZ caused by a few that promoted neck sizing only, so you’ll see more cleaning rods on the line here than any other place in the world. The next thing I would suggest is a case mike which are now made by several different companies, this provides a quick reference to the fired case to adjust the die. And here is another problem variations in case lube will change headspace. To counter this buy a set of shell holders that the sizing die bottoms out on the shell holder so that you can change the height of the shell holder to adjust the headspace of the case , this is what I used during the many years of competition that always worked well for me.

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  6. Pingback: Easy Ways to Save Yourself Headaches at the Range (Part 2) | Sierra Bullets

  7. Richard Davis says:

    If you have two rifles of the same caliber, make sure the chamber sizes are the same. I found out the hard way that a 550CZ 375 H&H is larger than a Win 70 375 H&H. I load reduced loads so neck size usually and got a larger case (550CZ) stuck in the chamber of the rifle with a smaller chamber (Win 70). Wished i had bought a case gauge. Good article.-Richard Davis

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  8. Uncle Joe says:

    Great article – thanks!
    Screwing in the seating die too close is quite common – and most devastating military-style chambers that stretch the living daylights out of the case. ARs with 556 are the worst offenders.

    Liked by 1 person

  9. Bill Bragdon says:

    Good information. When loading rifle ammo and some unusual rounds such as 32-20 and 38-40, I seat the primers in a separate operation using the RCBS priming tool. I find it gives me more control and I can check to make sure each primer is seated properly. I’ve been reloading since I was a teenager on the kitchen table with a Lee Loader. My dear old mom was a saint to let me do that. Every so often I would pop a primer and she would jump and tell me to be careful. I have a light on my reloading bench and once all the cases in that lot are charged I use the light to look down into the cases to insure they are all loaded similarly. You can’t beat that type of QC and it prevents embarrassing moments at the range or hunting. I use a Dillon progressive to load most pistol rounds and it’s great and fast however, I’ve had issues with the powder bar sticking open and not throwing a charge. Progressives are great but I find I pull about every fifth round and weigh the charge. Anyway, thanks for listening!

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